Get geared up
It's time to get your bag ready and prepare for some golf. Just one more quick tip regarding clubs before we move on, although we could talk about equipment until one of us shoots par...
There are also two basic flex types for shafts, regular and stiff. Regular flex (R) would be the recommended flex for a beginner. If you have a more athletic swing or fast hands, go with stiff (S) flex. Both require a range of swing speeds, so if you're swing too fast with regular flex clubs you'll hit the ball to the right or slice because the clubhead won't have enough time during your swing to return to square at impact. Slow it down a bit if necessary, but you might want to consider stiff flex at that point. You'll know more once you hit the range. Onward and, ideally, upward...
A two-piece ball is made of a rubber core (or synthetic rubber), possibly hard plastic and an outer cover of Surlyn, typically, although that can vary as well. This type of ball is very durable, provides good distance, reduces spin and is usually among the least expensive models. It would be the preferred choice of beginning or high-handicap golfers. The limited spin will keep you closer to the line of your intended shot and minimize the dreaded slice.
We'll lump the remainder in the misnomer of multi-layer balls (since a 2-piece ball would technically be a multi-layer ball, but let's save that discussion to argue on the course.) This category encompasses balls that can have from 3 to 5 layers. These layers do various things that generally help with shorter approach shots with the ability to have increased spin and work-ability of shaping shots. If you have trouble hitting the ball straight or even know where your ball is going to go, stick with the 2-piece balls.
Personally, I lived on Callaway Warbirds for a very long time. It's a two-piece ball and it feeds the ego. I mean, really, Warbird? Nothing soft about that name.
Ultimately, it's about feel. Besides, it's easier to try new balls than clubs, so you're free to try anything that you want.That will be determined by your performance on the course. But before you hit the links, you'll want to hit the driving range to get a feel for your sticks. We can get some basics out of the way there and get you onto the course before too long.
Shaft selection for your clubs
There are two basic types of shafts, steel and graphite. Steel shafts have less flexibility, but that means less twisting of the club during the golf swing, which impacts your ability to get the club face square at contact for a straight hit. For more consistency go with steel. Graphite shafts are more flexible and can be an advantage if you need to create clubhead speed. They are beneficial when you chunk, or hit the ground behind the ball...badly, so it won't feel like you've hit a fire hydrant with a crowbar.There are also two basic flex types for shafts, regular and stiff. Regular flex (R) would be the recommended flex for a beginner. If you have a more athletic swing or fast hands, go with stiff (S) flex. Both require a range of swing speeds, so if you're swing too fast with regular flex clubs you'll hit the ball to the right or slice because the clubhead won't have enough time during your swing to return to square at impact. Slow it down a bit if necessary, but you might want to consider stiff flex at that point. You'll know more once you hit the range. Onward and, ideally, upward...
Ballin'
We could talk about different equipment and balls for literally days, but we're going to keep this basic to get you out on the course. Golf balls are made of multiple layers (unless you're playing miniature golf, and we're not going there), but the basic type is a two-piece ball.A two-piece ball is made of a rubber core (or synthetic rubber), possibly hard plastic and an outer cover of Surlyn, typically, although that can vary as well. This type of ball is very durable, provides good distance, reduces spin and is usually among the least expensive models. It would be the preferred choice of beginning or high-handicap golfers. The limited spin will keep you closer to the line of your intended shot and minimize the dreaded slice.
We'll lump the remainder in the misnomer of multi-layer balls (since a 2-piece ball would technically be a multi-layer ball, but let's save that discussion to argue on the course.) This category encompasses balls that can have from 3 to 5 layers. These layers do various things that generally help with shorter approach shots with the ability to have increased spin and work-ability of shaping shots. If you have trouble hitting the ball straight or even know where your ball is going to go, stick with the 2-piece balls.
Personally, I lived on Callaway Warbirds for a very long time. It's a two-piece ball and it feeds the ego. I mean, really, Warbird? Nothing soft about that name.
One more thing...
If you should find yourself with the chance to procure some choice, name brand clubs, consider balls that are made by the same company. Callaway, Nike, TaylorMade, Titleist all make some nice golf balls, as well as clubs. Considering that companies perform testing to maximize the performance on the balls they produce, what do you think they're testing with? It would stand to reason they would use their own brand of clubs, although you could find some reviews or independent testing as well.Ultimately, it's about feel. Besides, it's easier to try new balls than clubs, so you're free to try anything that you want.That will be determined by your performance on the course. But before you hit the links, you'll want to hit the driving range to get a feel for your sticks. We can get some basics out of the way there and get you onto the course before too long.
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